Dear Friends,

First, I apologize for the long lapse since I last wrote. The humanitarian crisis in Albania is now in phase 2 and CARE is quite busy (I’ll write more on this later.) Second, I apologize in advance for any discombobulated thoughts in this letter but I spent the last 11 hours in the car travelling from Tirana to Kukes. In addition to aspirin for my headache, I am in serious need for a chiropractor or osteopath to manipulate my spine back to its normal state.

Erin, Brian, Fitim and I left the CARE office in Tirana this morning at 7:30 AM. It was a beautiful morning, perfect beach weather — a large number of Albanians agreed and the roads were already congested with cars filled with children, swim gear, and picnic needs. Once out of Tirana, we headed north toward Mjeda, which is about 120 kilometers from the City. Three hours later we had covered half the distance and were late for our appointment with the Danish Red Cross. The roads in Albania are horrendous — we were on the “major” coastal route and pavement was virtually non-existent. Trucks, buses, cars, horse-drawn carts and pedestrians danced around holes, craters, and other obstacles at a speed of no more than 10 kilometers per hour. It was painful and grueling, to say the least.

Our first stop, just outside of Lezhe, was at the Danish Red Cross camp where we were to explore the feasibility of opening a Way Station. Simply put, a Way Station is a rest area for people travelling back to Kosovo on tractors, buses, and other slow-moving vehicles. Services offered include food and water, sanitary facilities, and basic medical care — in many cases the services are provided by a partner agency such as Salvation Army, International Mercy Corps, and Relief International. CARE is managing five Way Stations in Albania and we have been asked to replicate the program in Kosovo.

In Mjeda, we began the eastward journey through the mountains. Albania is indeed “mostly mountainous” and the views are breath taking. The already-bad roads are worse with large craters, sheer drop-offs and hairpin turns. The danger is compounded by the volume of traffic — mostly trucks and heavily loaded cars. More than once we must negotiate around disabled vehicles. I doubt that many cars would actually pass a safety inspection!

The CARE Way Stations are a welcome relief to the trip. We stop in Puke and then Shemri to visit CARE expatriate staff who are managing the sites and to assess the immediate needs. Puke is crème de la crème — an abandoned school with expansive grounds. In addition to providing security, the Italian military has taken over the kitchen and serving incredible meals to CARE staff. At the Shemri Way Station it is the Salvation Army who is providing hot meals to refugees and staff.

After seemingly endless hours, we arrive in Kukes. Immediately Fitim and Brian comment on how deserted the town has become since their last visit. The Town Square is virtually empty, save for the agency staff. We find the CARE international staff hosting a party for departing Kosovars who had been working in the office and at the camp. While some had already departed, many were leaving with their families the following day. Despite our exhaustion, we joined the exuberant celebration — the Kosovars were filled with hope and eagerness for their impending trip home.